Grönt te rostas i wok - hantverksmässig tillverkning i Korea
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Det här är grönt te

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Allt \"riktigt\" te kommer från tebusken camellia sinensis. Oavsett om det är svart, grönt eller vitt te. Plantan finns visserligen i olika varianter, kultivarer, men det är processen efter skörd som avgör vilken sort det blir.

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Odling av finare gröna teer sker framför allt i Kina, Japan och Korea, men speciellt industriellt produceras även i många andra länder.

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Grönt te kommer alltså från tebusken, och processas sedan efter plockning, och det är den processen vi ska förklara här!

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Skörden

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Det är förstås mycket som föregår skörden. Man ska välja odlingsplats, rätt variant av teplantan, man ska plantera, gödsla, beskära och så vidare. Nu antar vi att allt det är klart, och det är dags för skörd.

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Skörden sker normalt på våren, från slutet av mars till början av juni, beroende på de lokala förutsättningarna och vilken sorts te som ska produceras.  I Kina sker mycket av plockningen för hand, medan man i Japan oftare skördar maskinellt. Givetvis påverkar det priset.

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För finare sorter sker plockningen för hand, och det kan vara så att man enbart plockar bladknoppar, eller en knopp och ett blad. Här besöker vi ett kinesiskt teplantage där man odlar Bi Luo Chun. Då ska bladknoppen och ett blad plockas, varken mer eller mindre.

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Vid korrekt plockning ska bladen brytas och inte nypas loss. Om man nyper bladen, skadar man cellväggarna, vätska tränger ut som oxiderar. Det gröna teet får då en lite annan smak. Det är samma orska till att mästerkockar brukar rekommendera att man river sina salladsblad, inte skär dem.

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Luftning och rensning

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De skördade bladen får nu ligga till sig en stund, det man på engelska kallar withering, ungefär \"vissning\". Bladen förlorar vatten, och blir därför mjukare inför de följande stegen.

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Ibland går man även igenom bladen en gång till, för att se efter att det verkligen är en knopp och ett blad som plockats, och att inga vissna eller trasiga blad följt med.

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Till 1 kg te går de åt mellan 10 000 och 60 000 bladknoppar. Så det är arbetsintensivt att producera förstklassigt grönt te.

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Upphettning

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Bladen hettas nu upp, och förenklat kan man säga att det är vad som gör det till grönt te. I Kina används en het wok, runt 180°C, och man så att säga \"steker\" bladen. För oss oinvigda ser det ut som om de bara vispar runt bladen i woken, men det är en serie olika moment som görs beroende på var i processen man befinner sig. Endast en tränad person får göra det, annars riskerar man att förstöra bladen.

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I Japan sker upphettningen i stället med ånga under en mycket kort tid. Det som händer är att ett enzym i bladen (polyfenoloxidas) förstörs. Det enzymet gör annars att bladen kan oxidera. Det är samma ämne som finns i äpplen, och gör att de snabbt mörknar när man skurit i dem. Genom att försöra enzymet, förblir bladen gröna.

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Rullning/formning

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Vi försöker beskriva lite enkelt en massa olika traditioner samtidigt. När man gör Long Jing ska bladfjunen bort, och det blir små tussar som man avlägsnar. Vid tillverkning av bi luo chun ska de istället vara kvar på bladen, och gör att dessa sjunker när man lägger dem i hett vatten.

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I kinesisk tradition flyter det här steget ihop med det föregående. Bladen formas enligt traditionen. Det kan vara nålformade, platta lansformade, skruvade i spiral, eller runda.

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Här används ibland maskiner som är effektivare att rulla bladen. Här är en bild på en sådan liten maskin. Tebladen läggs i en cylinder. Ett lock (knappt synligt i överkant) trycker ner bladen. Under cylindern är ett bord som utför en cirkelrörelse. På så vis rullas bladen.

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Torkning & rensning

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Bladen måste förstås torkas innan packning. Det kan ske i wok eller i en torkugn, eller utbredda blad på ett bord.

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Efter torkningen rensas bladen, t.ex. kan det vara brända blad man tar bort. Man avlägsnar även damm som kommer från bladfjun och rester som lossnat från bladen.

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Grönt te bryggs ofta i glas, och då ser det även aptitligare ut om man avlägsnat damm. Men det påverkar även smaken.

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Efterbehandling - Rostning

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Vissa gröna teer genomgår en ytterligare rostning som det sista steget. Det ger en speciellt aromatisk, nästan brödig smak. Här på bilden är det en koreansk temästare som efterrostar teet innan förpackning.

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Det finns även hårt rostade teer, som hojicha, en japansk specialitet. Det teet blir verkligen brunt, och får en helt annan smak.

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